We should have hired a bike or a car or something for our time in Mykonos.
Today we heading over the other side of the island for lunch at Kiki’s.
The epitome of laid-back Mykonos; Kiki’s is a tiny little restaurant above Sostis beach. No sign, just the smell of grilled meat and a smoke signal from a little white chimney tells us we’re in the right place. 10 tables, open 7 days, for lunch only, May through to October.
It’s not a bad spot to be waiting – overlooking the beautiful blues of the med under the shade of the old tree that acts as the roof to the restaurant. There are no reservations, no names on lists or take-a-number and wait in line – if you got there last, you’re at the end of the queue.
The small menu offers grilled meats and fish, all served with a baked potato and the choice of about a dozen salads at the bar inside the tiny kitchen/house, that the restaurant runs out of.
Mr Vasilas(?) and his business partner make the salads fresh everyone morning, after he’s gone for a swim and hand fed the snapper at the little beach below (this is his meditation he tells us). What a life, work hard here for 6 months and take the rest of the year off.
I’ve chosen the artichoke hearts with lemon & garlic and the lentil salad with sundried tomato & feta (7€) to accompany my grilled pork cutlet (17€).
The artichoke is incredible! I’ve not seen such big artichoke hearts before. Tender and flavored with garlic, lemon zest and fresh herbs. I ask Mr Vasilas how they’re prepared – he only tells me that they’re lightly steamed, and the rest is a secret. The pork is enormous – chargrilled and deliciously sweet and pink.
My travel buddy is eating lighter than me, choosing four salads (14€); tabouli, beetroot & apple, lentil and broad beans with chili. All delicious and flavorsome.
Another hot day calls for a local beer (3€), Alfa, and a dash of lemonade (It’s so old lady, but I love a shandy).
Mr Vasilas opened the restaurant in 1983 and there’s been no shortage of patronage since (word of mouth really is the best advertising) and the queue is even longer by the time we leave. He has no plans to add more tables or drinks for the waiting diners – it is what it is and always will be.
Did I mention we should have hired a bike or a car? There are 8000 tourists on the island now (2 million during peak season) and apparently only 30 taxis. We’re forced to wait over an hour to try an order one. Mr Vasilas feels sorry for us and delivers a brownie with fresh cream while we wait. The cream is cool and light and the brownie tastes like it’s been made with almond meal and Amaretto.
We go for a swim.
I wish there was somewhere like this back home. Just perfect.
Score: 8.5 Plates (out of 10)
Kiki’s – Agios Sostis, Mykonos, Greece