I came to Borough Market today in search of a man named Bill Ogleshield, and this thing he does with cheese. Ogleshield Raclette; a generous helping of melted cheese on a pile of new potatoes, baby gherkins and pickled onions (£6). Warned of the crowds, we got there early. But we were too early for Bill – who’s Kappacasein stall hadn’t even turned on the cheese grill yet.
Disheartened and hungry we went for a walk around the stalls – many of them still setting up – and I tried to fill my cheese void with a Bacon, egg and blue vein cheddar roll (£4.50) from Northfield Farm. With two eggs, four slices of bacon and a wedge of lovely stinky cheese – it was probably the best bacon and egg roll I’ve ever eaten. But I still felt empty.
We loop back around to Kappacasein but there will be no Raclette until 10am I’m told. We see giant pans of paella starting to simmer and realise, this place is more of a lunch time thing. So I decide (now the sandwich toaster has warmed up), the next best thing to order is a Toasted cheese sandwich (£5). Bill let’s me try the Raclette – like Swiss cheese in texture, it’s rich and full of flavor.
I watch, as not just any old cheese toastie is prepared… Montgomery Cheddar, red onion, leeks and garlic are packed between two slices of pain Poilâne sourdough, then covered in more cheese before hitting the grill to melt and bubble away until the outside is just golden enough, blistered with crispy brown deliciousness.
Best. Toasted. Cheese. Sandwich. Ever.
I will be back, for the Raclette…